Die Supercams decken dank der asymmetrischen Klemmbacken einen sehr breiten Klemmbereich ab!
Der veränderte Winkel der Klemmbacken sorgt zudem für eine größere Kontaktfläche. Hier werden Sicherheit, Handling, Zuverlässigkeit und Einfachkeit vereint.
With the Supercam, Metolius has gone back to the drawing board! With two years of painstaking effort, we revisited all the design assumptions that have been built into camming devices for the last 30 years. We’ve designed a new generation of extended-range cams, and they are improved in every way! The Supercam has extended the camming range well past that available with other designs while still retaining the increased holding power and safety that can only be achieved with the smaller cam angle of 13.25°. This safer cam angle increases the outward force by a critical 10% over other brands with larger cam angles. The cam faces have more than 30% extra contact surface compared to other brands, making rock fracture much less likely. Our new aggressive, ratchet-style (Shark Fin) tooth pattern helps to set the cam during the initial load up event of a fall. The Supercam is a perfect example of our underlying design philosophy: safety, simplicity, reliability and long-term performance.
The magic in this design relies upon the simple concept of its asymmetry. The smaller-side cam lobes pass within the arc drawn by the larger side, allowing us to use the previously unused portion of the cam’s spiral. We also feel that this revolutionary new design increases overall cam stability in these notoriously unstable large sizes.
We also include the Range Finder coding system which tells you at a glance whether or not you’ve chosen the optimum size cam for the placement. This is an especially helpful tool for climbers just learning the art of gear placement.
All this is held in our lightweight and flexible U-shaped framework for greater durability and unparalleled control during placement and retraction. We invented machined, high-strength cam stops and they are standard issue on our Supercams along with color-coded slings and tubing for quick identification. One pull of the trigger and you will begin to understand the magic that is the SUPERCAM!
Greater Holding Power!
Details:
+ Optimized cam angle for more outward force
+ Wider cam faces for more grip
+ U-shaped body for greater durability & unparalleled control during placement and retraction
+ Machined cam stops
+ Color-coded sewn slings and tubing
+ CNC machined for much greater precision than stamped or extruded cams
+ 6061 T-6 aluminum
+ Size: medium
+ Colour: maroon
+ Dimensions min. + max.: 52,5 - 91,5mm
+ Strength: 2700 lbf (12 kN)
+ Weight: 9 oz (255 g)
Many different characteristics must be blended together to make a good camming unit: holding power, ease of use, range durability, weight, price, etc. Many of the characteristics are antagonistic. For example, some holding power is usually sacrificed to get increased range or vice-versa. Each manufacturer chooses which properties to emphasize in their cam design and which can be compromised. The bottom line is, if your cam pulls out, the other properties don't matter. That's why we design our camming units to maximize holding power.
When a load is applied to a camming unit, the cams respond by pushing out against the walls of the placement. Three variables determine how much force the unit will hold: how hard the cams push out against the walls of the placement (outward force), how well the cams grip the walls of the placement (friction), and how well the rock on the walls of the placement hold up to the pressure of the cams (rock strength).
The angle at which the cams push out against the walls of the placement is referred to as the cam angle. Cam angle is critical because the more the cams push straight out against the walls of the placement (smaller cam angle), the greater the outward force is and the stronger the placement is. Imagine stemming in a chimney with blank walls. The more you push straight out on your feet, the more secure you feel. As you try to move up, you begin to push at a downward angle. The steeper that angle becomes, the more you rely on the friction of your shoes, and the less secure you feel. Unfortunately, the more the cams push straight out, the less range they have. Range is increased by making the cams push at a more downward angle (greater cam angle), which decreases the outward force. The trick is to optimize the angle to have sufficient range and maximum holding power.
Given that all cam materials currently in use have about the same coefficient of friction, the only way to increase the grip between the cam faces and the rock is to increase the surface area. Wider cams grip the rock better just as wider car tires grip the pavement better.
The rock strength accounts for what is probably the most common mode of failure in the real world. Even in very hard rock types, it is not uncommon for the surface layer of rock to pulverize under the force of the cams, forming a loose layer (like ball bearings) which allows the cam to pull out. Wide cam faces spread the load out and greatly reduce the chance of breaking the rock on the walls of the placement.
Metolius cams have a slightly smaller cam angle than most manufacturers', so the cams are generating more outward force for a similar load. We sacrifice a little range to do this, but we think it's well worth it. We also increase the surface area of the cam faces to increase the grip. We have the widest cam faces on the market, far and away. This has the added benefit of spreading out the force on the rock, reducing the chance of failure due to rock breakage.
Care and Maintenance of Camming Units
The first and most important step in cam maintenance is inspection. Inspect your cams frequently. If you have any reason to doubt the integrity of a camming unit, (or any of your gear) heed your instincts and retire it. If it is a Metolius product, you can send it to us for inspection. You should destroy retired gear to prevent any chance of future use.
Look at the teeth on your cams. If they are worn unevenly or have been flattened in a hard fall, it probably means that the cam has lost its shape and is unsafe to use.
Check for slop between the cams and the axle. There should be some free-play, but too much play indicates that the axle holes in the cams have become oval. Compare the free-play to a new cam of the same size to get an idea of how much is acceptable.
Inspect the cable body carefully. It is okay to tweak the cable to straighten it after a fall, but if any of the wire strands that make up the cable have been broken or severely kinked, the unit needs to be retired.
Look at the springs and cam stops, which can break if the unit is improperly placed and then loaded. Also take a look at the axle. It’s possible to bend the axle of a small unit in a hard fall, in which case it needs to be retired.
The most likely places to find damage to your units are the trigger wires or the sling. Straighten the trigger wires if they become bent. Try to get the wires completely straight so all the cams lobes retract at the same rate. The cam lobes should line up evenly when fully retracted or fully open. Keep an eye on the swaged joint on the trigger wire. It is the most likely place for the wire to fray. If the sling or the stitching show major signs of abrasion, or if any of the stitching is broken, the sling must be replaced. Metolius will replace slings or trigger wires on our cams for a nominal fee. We don’t offer repair kits for the triggers because we like to get damaged or worn cams back in-house for a thorough inspection.
Care of your cams is a simple process. Keep them clean and dry. If they get wet, don’t just throw them in the closet until the next trip. Dry them off and re-lube them as soon as possible. If they get corroded, you can use steel wool or a Scotch Brite pad to remove the corrosion. Keep your cams away from any corrosive substances or solvents. Acids are exceptionally bad for cam slings and other nylon climbing equipment. Even fumes from a car battery can reduce the strength of your slings by as much as 90%. If your cams come into contact with any corrosive substances or solvents, have the slings replaced immediately. If you have any doubt, contact us to see if the corrosive substance could have compromised the metal parts of the unit.
Replace the slings if you see any signs of damage or discoloration, after a severe fall, or after five years. Even though your cam slings may show no significant signs of wear, the nylon will deteriorate with the passage of time. If in doubt, send them to us for inspection. Store your cams in a cool, dry place away from U.V. light sources.
To clean your cams, make a solution of one part Metolius EcoTech Cam Cleaner to 10 parts water. Swish the heads in this solution while working the trigger bar, making sure to keep the slings out of the cleaner. Use a stiff-bristled brush to clean thoroughly all around the head, especially in the springs and inside the cam lobes. The Metolius M-16 brush is perfect for this task. (It was originally designed to clean the intricate parts of an M-16 rifle!) Depending upon how dirty your cams are and what lubricants you have used in the past, you might need to use a stronger solution, even full strength. Often, well-used cams will require several cleanings to work all the dirt and old lube out from the axle. Using compressed air to blow the cams out while the EcoTech is still wet can help. Rinse the unit thoroughly with hot water and then dry thoroughly. No amount of lube will restore good action to a dirty cam, so make sure your cams are cleaned thoroughly.
Metolius EcoTech Cam Cleaner represents a new generation of bio-cleaning technology. It is an environmentally responsible product that doesn’t compromise on performance. EcoTech concentrate contains only 100% active ingredients. A small amount will create a very strong solution. EcoTech is fully biodegradable.
Now you’re ready to lube your cams and restore like-new action. Shake Metolius Cam Lube vigorously, at room temperature, to mix all solids. (Use body heat to warm MCL if used in colder outdoor climates.) Apply MCL to the cam pivots and springs and work it in until the smooth action is fully restored. Wipe off excess lube with a rag then let MCL fully dry (several minutes to an hour). For optimum penetration, apply MCL to cams at or above 40ºF (5ºC). MCL can be applied to wet parts, but it will take longer to dry before becoming a waterproof, dirt-repelling shield.
Metolius Cam Lube is a patented, self-cleaning lubricant. When dirt attaches itself to the fully dried film, small particles of the lube will break away, carrying dirt with it. MCL keeps parts working smoothly and helps them last longer. MCL is waterproof after it has dried completely.
If you do not completely understand any of the above or if you have questions, contact Metolius at (541) 382-7585 or info@metoliusclimbing.com.
Diesen Artikel haben wir am 31.12.2006 in unseren Katalog aufgenommen.