Rockfax - Clwyd Limestone

The area known to climbers as 'Clwyd Limestone' refers generally to the long line of horizontally-banded limestone escarpments that rim the eastern side of the Eglwyseg Valley, a tranquil and secluded spot situated to the north of Llangollen.
The cliffs in the valley offer climbing ranging from traditionally protected low-grade lines, to hard classics and plenty of sport climbing.
There are over 800 routes to go at; enough to keep both the occasional visitor and local enthusiasts busy for many years.

Although the Clwyd area has often been thought of as a bit of backwater, climbing has taken place on the area's limestone for around 40 years, with the obvious easier lines being the first to fall.
The steepness and looseness of the rock meant that many of the early forays on to the more impressive sections of rock were aid extravaganzas. The late 70s to mid 80s saw an explosion in new routing, with the introduction of the first routes using bolt protection and the emergence of the modern approach to free climbing. This period of activity left the crags with a good number of routes of the highest quality and difficulty. The 90s and the new millennium have seen continued development of many of the crags, the introduction of the first really hard sport climbs, and also lots of very important re-equipping and cleaning of older lines.

Ringing the central area of climbing in the Eglwyseg Valley are some excellent little quarries that provide a large number of well protected lines, both sport and traditional in style. These quarries were all abandoned long ago, hence most have returned to a more natural appearance and lie in beautiful rural settings where good views, solid rock, easy access (and pleasant pubs) add to the experience.

The book is in the familiar Rockfax format of full-colour photo topos, high quality route descriptions, with symbols, maps and all the other features that you have come to expect. The authors are Lee Proctor on his first Rockfax, and Mark Glaister, who has been producing Rockfax books for several years.

Crags Included:
World's End, Craig Arthur, Twilight Zone, Pinfold Area, Monk's Buttress (- sample chapter), Dinbren, Trevor Area, Pot Hole Quarry, Maeshafn, Devil's Gorge, Ruthin Escarpment, Llanymynech

+ 160 Pages
+ 12 Crags
+ 900+ Routes
+ Full colour throughout